For some days I studied about how can I maintenace my bike to get long time performance. Got lot’s of tips on web. Here Im sharing this for all.
Tyres
Check your tyres’ tread visually or using a depth gauge which are
readily available at motoring accessory shops. It may have plenty of tread
left at the edges but what’s the main part of the tyre like? Check
the tyre including side walls for lumps, cuts, nails or glass. Any damaged
tyre should be replaced immediately – it’s not worth the risk.
Check the pressures with a good quality guage, not a garage forecourt job,
which are usually hopelessly inaccurate. This should be done when the tyres
are cold. Look in the owners manual to find the correct tyre pressures and
set them to the specified pressure for solo or 2up riding as required.
Suspension
Sit on the bike and bounce up and down on the suspension. Then, check for
any oil weeping from the fork seals - this is the point where the shiny
part of the fork leg enters the stanchion or lower end of the unit. If they’re
leaking, they need changing - it’s not a simple job, so if you’re
not confident enough to take it on, take the bike to your dealer.
Brakes
Check the fluid level on your bike’s front and rear brake reservoirs.
The fluid should be between the minimum and maximum level marked on the
reservoir. Fluids are rated by DOT numbers. 3 is the lowest, 6 is the highest.
DOT 4 is the industry standard. It’s nasty stuff that’ll eat
through your paintwork, never mind your skin. So protect from spills with
a cloth and protect yourself by wearing rubber gloves and wash thoroughly
if it gets on your skin.
Next inspect the brake pads for wear. Use a torch as it’ll help you
see into the caliper. Look for how much actual material is left on the pad.
There should be a visible wear limit groove in the centre. The manufacturer’s
recommendation is no less than 1mm left on the pad itself but don’t
take chances. Safety rules, ok?
If grinding or metallic scraping noises are coming from the disc whilst
braking then it’s definitely time for an inspection. Leaving worn
out pads in for too long is a false economy – you risk damaging the
discs themselves, and discs aren’t cheap.
Engine Oil
The life blood of any engine, it’s vital that you check your oil on
a regular basis. That is, every time you use your bike. Some bikes use a
dipstick, others a sight-glass. The oil should be checked when the engine
is cold and the bike is totally upright. Do this by standing the machine
on firm and level ground. If it needs topping up, use the recommended oil
and only add small amounts at a time to prevent over-spilling.
Drive Chain
A pooly adjusted chain is noisy and inefficient. It can be dangerous if
it’s really slack or tight but fortunately it’s easy to sort
out. Put the bike on the centre stand if fitted or use a paddock stand if
you can get one. Check the chain’s tension by measuring the amount
of travel at the midway point between front and rear sprocket. Take this
measurement at varying points on the chain by turning the rear wheel a few
inches at a time. There should be on average 30-50 mm of free play at the
tightest point. Your owner’s manual will give the exact specification.
If there’s too much or too little slack you need to adjust it and
here’s how to do it:
1. Slacken the spindle nut
2. Adjust chain tension by turning adjusters
an equal amount
3. Make sure the adjusters on both sides
are equally adjusted. There are little marks on the adjuster blocks or swing
arms of most bikes to help you. They’re not ususally especially accurate
but they’ll give you a rough guide
4. Re-tighten the spindle nut, ideally
with a torque wrench to the correct setting
5. Re-tighten adjusters
6. Check tension again. The first few
times you do it you might find that as you re-tighten the spindle nut the
chain gets tighter or looser and you have to start again. You will soon
get a feel for it. Also bear in mind that on some bikes, adjusting the chain
affects the back brake which then needs to be re-adjusted. Again, if you
are in any doubt whatsoever, consult your dealer.
Chain Lube
Once you’ve adjusted the chain, apply some chain lube. The best way
to do this is to get the bike on its centre stand (if it doesn’t have
one get a mate to balance the bike on the side stand and keep the rear wheel
clear of the floor). Then spin the wheel forwards and spray the lube into
where the chain and sprocket meet at the bottom so the lube gets carried
round onto the sprocket. It’s best to do this at least a couple of
hours before you ride. This gives the solvent time to evaporate and stops
the lube getting flung all over your back wheel.
Cables
Throttle and clutch cables should be tested for smooth operation. The throttle
in particular should snap back to the shut position without sticking when
it’s releaseed - if they don’t operate smoothly then oil or
replace them. Simple cable oiling tools are cheap and easy to use although
sometimes a bit messy and will extend the life of your cables as well as
making your bike nicer to ride.
Cooling system
For a water cooled bike, when the engine’s cold, you need to check
that the coolant level in the radiator expansion tank is between the minium
and maximum marks. The tank can be hidden in various places so check the
manual if you’re struggling to find it. If it needs topping up, mix
the recommended amount of water and anti-freeze which varies according to
brand and fill to the maximum level.
Battery
It’s fairly simple to remove most batteries for inspection and doing
so would prevent your object of desire from going up in flames from a rogue
spark. Disconnect the earth (negative) terminal first and reconnect it last.
Examine the acid level indicated on the side of the battery, top it up with
distilled water if necessary, never with tap water and then charge it up
with a bike specific charger (many car chargers supply too much current
for bike batteries). When charging, it’s wise to loosen the filler
plugs to allow expanding gas to escape safely. Don’t attempt to top
up jelly filled or sealed batteries. Consult your dealer. When reinstalling
the battery, ensure the connections are on the right way and are tight and
don’t forget to reconnect the breather pipe.
Cleaning your bike
If you do it regularly, washing your bike shouldn’t take too long
and it’ll give you the chance to spot anything amiss with your machine.
Use a good quality wax shampoo in plenty of hot water. A dish brush is good
for hard to get to areas and a sponge is ideal for washing down body work.
Once you’ve given the bike a good going over, rinse with plenty of
fresh water and see if you’ve missed any bits. Avoid using pressure
washers too close to the bike as they can blast essential grease and oils
from bearings and cables. Get a strong one and they can even strip stickers
from body work. A liberal coat of protective spray such as scottoil fs365
will help sustain your bike’s finish. It’s slippery so ensure
you don’t spray it anywhere near the brakes, discs, footrests or hand
controls.
In General
Check every nut and bolt you can see and get to, to make sure they are properly
tight. Then there’s just on more thing to do before you ride –
test every bulb on the bike, side light, dipped beam, main beam, left and
right indicators, brake light by testing both front and rear brakes individually,
and rear light. It’s worth checking all your lights work every time
you ride your bike. It may sound like overkill but a broken bulb is all
the excuse a bored garda needs to pull you over and spoil your day.
